In this issue

Arts
Prospect 1

Pasties, Sequins and Old-Time Glamour:
Burlesque in New Orleans is Booming

Winter Restaurant Guide

Tales From The Quarter
O Tannenbaum

Arts
Peter Smith, Art, and All That Jazz

Theater
Miracle on 34th Street

Po-Boy Views
Illusion Fields or Darning The Coal In Your Stockings

Revel in the Reveillon

Food News

Steak the Great:
When Seeing Red Means Feeling Good

SWEET SUCCESS
Sucré Gelateria

The Little Easy:
Acme Oyster House and Commander’s Palace Hold Their Own on the Florida Panhandle

The Great American Spirit

Lakeside to Riverside
Show previews for December

One to Watch
Rick Trolsen

CD Reviews

December Movie Reviews

DOGGIE STYLE
BEING A PATRIOT OF THE BARKS


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Pack The Track

Places to visit along the streetcar line

By Lindsay Hilton


In the face of a global green initiative, high prices at the pump, and vogue “staycations,” transportation in New Orleans is undergoing a dramatic facelift as it tries to keep step with the rest of the nation. The Regional Transit Authority (RTA) recently reopened the final leg of its streetcar line, making it possible for locals and tourists to hail the rail in record numbers -- from downtown Canal St. along the entire length of the 13-mile St. Charles Ave. line and most of S. Carrollton, where the line terminates at the S. Claiborne intersection. The Canal St. line also serves as a connector to the Riverfront streetcar line, which runs 1.9 miles and terminates at the French Market.
With the exception of the occasional hurricane interruption, our prized streetcar system has operated for more than 165 years, making it the oldest continually operating system in the U.S. One of our streetcar routes enjoys exalted status as one of the world’s top ten trolley rides in National Geographic’s Journeys of a Lifetime: 500 of the World’s Greatest Trips. The antique melody of the streetcar bells assures New Orleanians that our city is returning to some kind of normalcy. Riding is a way for locals to engage in the celebrated act of talking among strangers -- a timeless exercise indigenous to Southerners, particularly those from New Orleans. Workers and students commuting to and from, diners, bar hoppers, shoppers, and sightseers each going their separate way, but for a short time, finding commonality in the guy or gal sitting next to them.
Spend an afternoon riding. With stops every two blocks, the streetcar line bears businesses for every household need and individual desire, from grocers, dry cleaners, drug stores, and chiropractors to bars, shops, restaurants, credit unions, hair salons, and pet groomers. Start at Canal St. and visit the Audubon Institute’s new Insectarium, or spend money saved on gas at the Riverwalk Marketplace and the Shops at Canal Place. Venture down St. Charles Ave. and pick up a new fedora at Meyer the Hatter’s. Refresh with a sake-tini at the infamous Billy Blatt’s OHM Lounge, or luxuriate in the rich atmosphere of Le Pavillion’s historic bar on Poydras St. Catch an act at Le Chat Noir or a delectable lunch at Herbsaint. The Ogden Museum, the Contemporary Arts Center, and the National World War II Museum are all easily accessible from the St. Charles line, as are many of the smaller galleries that bedeck Julia and Camp streets. Take a taste trip down St. Charles Ave., with restaurant choices ranging from barbecue, Cajun, French, and sushi to burgers, steaks, pizza, and fast food. Delachaise pairs an ambitious wine menu with cheese and meat plates, and the streetcar’s accessibility drives motivation for an intimate dinner at Vincent’s or a concert or a lecture at Loyola or Tulane. Catch a ball game, good conversation, and great beer at Cooter Brown’s. If beer and bar grub aren’t your thing, don’t forget about the litany of other restaurants in the Riverbend area that stud the streetcar line, including Camellia Grill, Louisiana Pizza Kitchen, and Lebanon’s Cafe to name just a few. Others—Jacques-Imo’s, Ninja Sushi, Jamila’s, and Sara’s—are just a few blocks off the track.
Shopping also abounds along the track; Catalogue Collection (a women’s clothing boutique) and Canine Culture, which deals in accessories of the canine persuasion, are both located on the bend. Oak St. features On the Other Hand, a consignment store hallmarking high-end clothing. Recharge with a latte from rue de la course or cool down with gelato from the Gelato Pazzo Cafe.
Jump off at the last stop on the St. Charles line and head to the Art Marke, held at Palmer Park (on the corner of S. Claiborne and S. Carrollton). Hosted by the Arts Council, this monthly market (held on the last Saturday of every month through December 20) features wares from 50-100 local and regional artists selling photography, painting, jewelry, ceramics, homemade soaps, candles, clothing and much more. There’s also live music, food, and a children’s activity area so the whole family can tag along.

Track facts:

• With 12 cars in operation, the St. Charles Ave. line runs almost 24 hours a day, seven days a week.
• The Canal St. line links to both the St. Charles and Riverfront lines.
• A one-way fare is $1.25; transfers are $.25 each. A one-day pass costs $5; VisiTour Passes can be purchased at $12 for three days of unlimited access, and a monthly pass can be had for $55.
• RTA: 504.249.9300; www.norta.com

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